Sunday, June 15, 2008

Whose forearms are bigger?

Fred who? Here's some words from the horse's mouth:

No sends yet but getting some good progress on a few goodies. Was trying Cave Man (V9), not a great problem by any stretch of the imagination but a little long and pumpy and a good thing to try for getting some endurance back, when I started climbing again just a couple of weeks ago my threshold was about 2 moves - so about half that of normal... Anyway, in typical Pete style I fell off the last move. Its also bored a big hole in my index finger and bruised it badly so i've left it for now, its served its purpose.
Mostley been trying a few harder lines with some good progress; Dead Heat (V11) at ground control caves, have worked out all the moves and linked from the start to the big crux throw, right at the end. Havent actually caught this yet (fractions away) but might need some different feet, still a little unsure. If I can work out this move its only a few sessions away. Forced Entry (V12) at Andersons, can now staticly get the pod as an index finger mono, need a little more lock to get it as a gaston though. Have then done the next move off the gaston a few times. Top I havent tried, looks like it will need a little work but not too bad. Dead Can't Dance (V11), Hollow Mountain Cave. Was trying this with the close heel, like Chris does in the link-up, but the far away toe is the sequence for me, did the crux-gaston move 1st go with this beta. It requires a little more setting up which is why people dont use it for the link-ups but is fine when you've just pulled on 2 moves ago. Just have to get my left foot up after sticking it and I've done all the moves. Ammagamma (V13), which I was really excited about how it had felt on day one, is now off the cards, my f*cking ring-finger tendon is playing up again (the crux is a throw off a 3-finger poc). Have to rest it a couple of years if I want to do this one-pretty frustrating. I have however found new light in Lost For Life (V12, pictured), On day 1 I couldn't even pull off the ground for the 1st move and was slapping about a hand-distance away from sticking the 2nd move. Had my 2nd session yesterday, could only do the 2nd move with a bit of a power spot until Nita said "Im only touching your tshirt" and then lo-and-behold, I could do it pretty much every time. And then the 1st move, getting within 2cm of the hold. Now I know this is still a long way from doing it (sticking the hold looks HARD!) but its pretty exciting progress. I've also managed to pull on as if sticking the 1st move, campus my feet back on, match then chuck and on my best go slapped the hold, but didn't stick it.
Yeah, so I'm psyched. Pretty un-excited by the HMC but all the bloc-style probelms are absolutely wicked. Met Sam Edwards up here too, he's totally ashamed of the HMC linkups and wishes people would come for the other problems here. He was trying a project on the lower Taipan wall which I gave a go, couldn't touch it (He thinks it'll be about V13/14) and the project to the right is even harder.
Peace out,

When we get rid of this damn talking horse I might be able to get something from Pete himself.

Sunday, June 1, 2008


IMG_1266, originally uploaded by Derek Thatcher.

Can not wait to hear some more Radness reports